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| _ | |_| \__ \_| | | | (_) | || (_) | | | (__| |_| | (__| | __/\__ \
|_| |_|\__,_|___(_)_| |_|\___/ \__\___/|_| \___|\__, |\___|_|\___||___/
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_____ ___ ___ (__\/ _____ \/__)
| ___/ _ \ / _ \ =( \___/ )=
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(Living on the WWW at) \| |/
"http://www.cskk.ezoshosting.com/cs/moto/aus.moto/FAQ/" |_|
Overview
~~~~~~~~
The Aus.Motorcycles FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) comes in three parts.
Part One contains introductory material for learners or new bike buyers.
Part Two contains specific information about Australian touring, maintenaince,
bike hire, gear, etc...
Part Three covers the safety and everything else of clothing & gear.
Oh, and my employers have nothing to do with this. They do not endorse, approve of, disapprove of or otherwise interact with this document at all. In fact, I'd be surprised if they know it existed.
Sections that have been taken (almost) verbatim from submitted material are marked with the author's name and email address.
Nick Fitton <fitton@ned.dem.csiro.au> (the UrKotFAQ)
Colin Panisset <cmp@zip.com.au>
Carl Brewer <carl@oversteer.library.uwa.edu.au>
David Craig <dcraig@eee.utas.edu.au>
Tom Cohen <thos@cia.com.au>
Tim Mills <t.mills@qut.edu.au>
Nick Fitton <n.fitton@dem.csiro.au>
Jonathan Dwyer <jonathan@psych.psy.uq.oz.au>
Alvian Tam <atm@newt.phys.unsw.edu.au>
Tim Marsh <tmarsh@ariel.ucs.unimelb.edu.au>
Mike Cutter <mtc@arbld.unimelb.edu.au>
John Tserkezis <jt@iform.com.au>
The law apparently takes the view that if you are booked wearing a helmet without AS certification, then you are not wearing a helmet at all, and will be fined accordingly. This includes helmets bought overseas and imported personally, even if they are the same model as can be bought off the shelf here.
States that mandate AS1698 and AS1609: NSW, Tasmania, [...]
Currently, the only piece of protective gear that must be approved by an Australian Standard is the helmet. There are two standards which apply to helmets; one for the shell and one for the visor.
The following extracts are from the ACEL Standards Index Plus (January 1995). Many thanks to Tim Mills <t.mills@qut.edu.au> for providing this info.
Abstract: Specifies material, optical quality and mechanical strength. Provision is made for the limited use of tinted lenses. Test methods are in appendices.
Abstract: Specifies minimum performance criteria and test requirements for protective headgear for vehicle users, designed to mitigate the adverse effects of a blow to the head. The primary intended use is by motor cyclists, but it is equally applicable to all vehicle users, including racing car drivers and racing motor cyclists under Australian conditions. Tests for impact attenuation, penetration resistance, strength of retention system and its attachments, and peripheral vision are prescribed by reference to AS 2512. Specific marking requirements are detailed.
[ No doubt there are standards which relate to other bits of clothing. I'm interested. Send 'em in. ]
Dr. Rod Woods of Cambridge has been developing standards for kevlar gear -- there are several different factors which affect the performance of a kevlar suit in a crash, including the coarseness of weave, thickness and length of fibres, and so forth. A kevlar suit which is not made of an appropriate material will apparently disintegrate very rapidly. [references to follow]
The Snell standard tests point impacts at several locations over the helmet. It's designed to protect against penetration of the helmet rather than against crushing blows, such as your head hitting the pavement.
Resin-based composites (such as fibreglass, kevlar/carbon fibre etc.) helmets use a coarse-weave cloth and resin construction. They used to be considered the toughest helmets, though with the advances in plastics technology that may have changed. They are generally heavier than polycarbonate helmets. The range of composite helmets includes the Shoei RF200, [...]
Apparently, fibreglass helmets are more impact resistant than polycarbonate, and can in some cases spring back into the original shape without any *apparent* damage.
Polycarbonate helmets are considerably lighter than composite helmets. The shell is basically injection-moulded plastic, and some polycarbonate helmets still have the moulding seam down the centre of the helmet. Polycarbonate helmets include the Laser, most (all?) Boeri helmets, [...]
Tests have shown that polycarbonate helmets slide better than fibreglass on bitumen, thus reducing the possibility of whiplash.
Manufacturers:
Shoei RF200 ($low -> $high), RF700, TR50 (?), XR-8, [...]
Arai Quantum ($low -> $high), Giga [...]
Vemar [...]
Boeri [...]
Laser [...]
AGV [...]
Bieffe [...]
Nolan [...]
BMW (System III) [...]
John Tserkezis <jt@iform.com.au> remarks that graphics will bump the price of a helmet significantly (on the order of $200) and supplied the following information from an article in the March 1998 issue of _Two Wheels_. Prices will accordingly be current as of about the start of 1998.
| AGV | $low- Clarion, Strada, Arc, ArcSupersport $med- Q3 |
| ARAI | $med- Classic-R $high- NR-3, Quantum-E, RX-7RR3 |
| AXO | $med- RR1, RR3 $???- ZR5 (I believe this one to be in the $high range, but just) |
| BELL | $low- Starlite, Mag Ltd $med- Legacy, Streetstar |
| BIEFFE | $low- B4 Scatto, B12, B12R, Pole Position Classic, Pole Position $med- 3 Sport, BR15 |
| BMW | $high- System Helmet III
|
| DAINESE | $???- Ergon (although I believe it to be in the $low range)
|
| ELDORADO | $low- EXR/Classic, RXR
|
| F.F.M | $low- Speed, AXE, $med- Endor, Superbike |
| GP HELMETS | $low- J300
|
| HJC | $low- FG3K $med- CL-11, LT-12 |
| HARLEY-DAVIDSON | $low- RPM $med- Pacesetter |
| LAZER | $low- Dragon, LZ5, Orlando $med- Falcon |
| MDS | $low- Skema $med- BK |
| NOLAN | $low- N27, N40/Trend, N60/Trend, N70 $med- Elan, N90GP, N92 |
| SHOEI | $med- S3, RJ101V, RFR $high- RF700/Python/Heat, RF800(98), RF800 Jag (98), X9, XS-P (98) |
| THN | $low- T-380, T7, T791
|
| YES | $low- JET-Thermoplastic, Vision, JET-TR1 $med- Diablo Touring, Diablo Scacchi, Diablo Carbon |
The standard article on crash-testing protective clothing is "Torn in the USA". It's a comparison of leather vs. denim vs. waxed cotton etc., in a controlled gravel rash situation. [reference and possibly excerpts to follow]
Check that the zippers used are good and solid. Metal is foremost, but top-class plastic/nylon zips (of the spiral variety) are just as good. Some zips lock, and pulling on the material won't make them open further, this is good as it allows you to have your jacket partially unzipped.
The style of a jacket will affect its ability to protect you from rain, cold, wind and bugs. A Brando-style jacket (diagonal zipper with button-down lapel, standard shirt-style collar) is fine for summer riding and as a fashion accessory too, but the collar doesn't form a seal at your neck. Consequently, rain wind and small, hard, angry flying insects can be driven down towards your soft and sensitives. The other main style of bike jacket is the touring-style, possibly padded at shoulders and elbows and with a high collar that seals out the weather. This style of jacket is better for all-year round riding.
Padding is common amongst the touring-style jackets, but it may not be much use in the case of a crash. Most of the padding built into these jackets is low-density foam rubber, like the stuff you might find in a mattress. This foam compresses very easily and absorbs very little of the impact of a crash. Foam padding can work, but it must be high-density to be of use. A double layer of leather is of more use than low-density foam.
Good impact resistance in jackets and boots is provided either by hard armour or closed-cell/high density foam. Some people have said that the edge of hard armour can cut in an accident if forced into the body.
Jackets range in price from ${low} to ${high} for Brando-style jackets and from ${low} to ${high} for touring-style jackets.
Waterproofing and wind resistance are also important, especially in winter. It's reported that wearing a pair of rubber or latex gloves over your bike gloves works very well in this regard.
Most people keep two pairs of gloves -- one for summer and one for winter. Gloves aren't expensive (relative to surgery), so you may as well get yourself good ones.
Boots should have a solid, stiff sole (to prevent buckling), and cover at least your ankles. Boots that rise higher (over the shins) are even better. A number of manufacturers sell boots with little bits of inbuilt armour -- this mainly adds abrasion and penetration resistance in the case of an accident.
Water resistance is important in a pair of boots -- look for boots without seams or laces at the front (on the outside) as these will let water in. Zippers and buttons should be on the inside of your leg, around the back where water can't easily run.
See also the Jackets subsection WRT abrasion/impact resistance.
The British magazine Performance Bikes tested thirteen different boots and a pair of sneakers in their October 1994 issue. The tests (performed by Dr. Rod Woods, Cambridge) were "designed to replicate the most common failures of real bike boots in real road accidents". It's nine pages long and full of pictures, so it can't be included fully here, but it's pretty comprehensive.
[ distillation to be added ]
Manufacturers:
Alpinestars
David Craig <dcraig@eee.utas.edu.au>:
excellent boots. six years use, zips failed
Colin Panisset <colinp@nms.otc.com.au>:
The Gore-Tex boots with armoured bits. Great, really
waterproof, warm all the time. Two years, soles coming a bit
loose but still going. ($275 at time of purchase)
Rossi
David Craig <dcraig@eee.utas.edu.au>:
good boots. four years use, soles worn out.
current pair, two years use, no complaints.
R-Jays
Sidi
I don't know if the UK brands are available in Oz.
Full leathers generally come in one of two styles -- the one-piece type with a single zip up the front, and the two-piece zip-together type. The two-piece consists of leather pants with an elastic waist and a zip where the belt would be, and a pretty standard bike jacket with a zip under the waist. You can wear the pants and jacket separately, or combine them for a full suit.
Padding can be bought and installed after your jacket/leathers -- one approach is to use velcro sewn inside the jacket and glued to the padding, which is better than using metal pop-studs that could damage you in the case of an accident.
Padding can be bought to cover shoulders, elbows and knees. [ Back humps? lower backs? chest? groin? bum? I don't know yet...] Brands range in price from ${low} to ${high}.
Ear plugs are available everywhere -- almost all chemists stock them, and they only cost a couple of dollars for a pack of six or so. There are a few types -- a squidgy foam sort, a wax type and an elasticey plastic sort. They all cut noise, generally across a wide frequency range and by around 20 dB or more.
Try them next time you go on a Ride. You'll probably feel more rested when you arrive, and your ears won't be ringing either.
You should also consider the weight of a new helmet. A heavy helmet can put undue strain on the neck muscles, even if you've got an upright riding position. There's also an argument against a heavy helmet with respect to whiplash -- something heavy on your bonce will make it worse.
Different helmets also have different noise characteristics. At speed, wind noise can be quite noticeable in some helmets, even to the extent of blocking out engine noise (if the bike is quiet and you're going fast :-)). You can either buy a helmet that doesn't generate any wind noise (generally expensive) or use earplugs (the cheap foam ones from chemists are perfect). Some people suggest closing (or taping up) all vents -- it sometimes makes a difference.
Other than that, price and colour are the next most important considerations, usually in that order. If order isn't a problem for you, then hooray -- but the first two points are really important.
Don't buy a secondhand helmet. The foam can be crushed inside without any apparent exterior damage, and age causes it to harden anyway as the solvents outgas. Shells become more brittle with age, too.
"If you can't wear a helmet in the shop for ten minutes then don't
buy it. It won't bed in to your head. They say that you should take
it home and watch a movie in it, but that's silly. It cuts out your
peripheral vision and you have to turn the sound up."
- Tom Cohen <thos@cia.com.au>
Fit is important. A good jacket won't constrict you when in a full crouch, especially under the arms and across the shoulders. Wrist zippers should be on the upper inside of the arm where they're less likely to get dragged along the road. The jacket should be long enough to cover your hips and extend over the small of your back when in a crouch.
If any part of the jacket is too loose, then it is possible for that part to ride up when sliding along a rough surface (road, pebblecrete, really big pieces of sandpaper, etc) leaving you basically unprotected.
"Personally I like the wrist to be nice and tight - my Quin jacket
only allows me to get two fingers in the opening when zipped up -
this makes it easier to seal out wind, and less likely for it to be
dragged up the arm when sliding down the road."
- Tom Cohen <thos@cia.com.au>
The usual need is warm, dry, flexible, gravel resistant, stay on while you fly over the Volvo, gauntlet style to stop those nasty draughts up your sleeve, maybe a soft bit on the left hand to wipe wet visors.
Electric heated gloves may crack a mention, but hardly qualify as a _frequently_ asked question!
The boot material is very important. Don't get something made of silver lame, cos it just won't last in a crash. Leather works really well.
Some claim that steel toecaps can amputate toes, but it might be worth the risk -- the chances are higher that the toecap will save the toes and not remove them.
If you drop your shiny new helmet from three feet or more onto a hard surface) you should throw it away and buy a new one. The ability of a helmet to protect your head from an impact is severely reduced by compression of the foam liner, and this will happen in the case of even a slight impact. Beware second-hand helmets! Even though they may seem okay, the only way to be certain is to cut them in half and look.
Jonathan Dwyer <jonathan@psych.psy.uq.oz.au> writes that Airport and other security X-ray equipment is a cool way to check for otherwise invisible cracks in a helmet. Just be polite and ask if you can lean over and look at the screen as it goes through.
Alvian Tam <atm@newt.phys.unsw.edu.au> notes that cleaning a helmet with NapiSan gets the liner very clean but destroys the shell coating. Don't try this at home!
Hint: Mr. Sheen applied to the outside of your helmet and visor keeps it shiny and allows water droplets to bead and run off easily. It's transparent, too!
A good waterproofing product will also provide a measure of protection for the leather -- Sno-Seal is a good example.
Hint: if you have cotton stitching, don't use Dubbin. It's reported to cause the stitching to disintegrate faster than compounds like Sno-Seal.
Tim Marsh <phil@insted.unimelb.edu> offers the following method for cleaning a Dri-Rider jacket: