From rdubiel@sedproc.cr.usgs.gov Fri Apr 21 18:23:53 EST 1995 Article: 3774 of rec.climbing Xref: news.nsw.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:3774 Newsgroups: rec.climbing Path: news.nsw.CSIRO.AU!crux.rp.CSIRO.AU!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!its.csiro.au!mel.dit.csiro.au!munnari.oz.au!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!ukma!rsg1.er.usgs.gov!bspmac22.cr.usgs.gov!user From: rdubiel@sedproc.cr.usgs.gov (Russell F. Dubiel) Subject: Re: finger tendons Message-ID: Sender: news@rsg1.er.usgs.gov Organization: U.S. Geological Survey References: Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 23:05:12 GMT Lines: 37 In article , umesh_sharma@aprdlgtr.sps.mot.com (Umesh Sharma) wrote: > I have a tendon problem with a tendon at the base of my ring finger. Does > anyone have advise on how to heal this injury. Its been two monmths > already with no climbing, and have made no progress...... I've had 3 of these tendon pulleys blow over 5 years and have healed all 3 in less than a month with the following routine suggested by another climber. Four to six times a day (more if you can stand it and especially after climbing) I sit with the base of my finger pressed down on an ice cube, palm down toward the table, and do it until the ice cube is completely melted. I do it at work or at home while I'm engaged on the phone or something. Several times during the day massage the area with your opposite thumb, but always ACROSS the finger, never along the length of your finger - you can damage the sheath of the tendon that way. Stretch your fingers lightly to increase flexibility, especially before trying to climb. I take Ibuprofen initially, 4 at a time every 4 or 5 hours to get the pain and swelling down. After 2 months for you, this may not help, and you do have to watch taking too much Ibu, it's bad for your kidneys to take a lot for a lengthy time. I tape my finger in a figure 8 with it bent as much as possible, and am able to climb 2 or 3 days after the injury. Don't push it and reinjure it though, but you can climb with it taped like this. The tape takes the strain off the tendon. You ought to be able to find several climbers who know the procedure from personal experience. After 2 weeks I was up on the 5.10s again. I continue to tape these fingers every time I climb, even years after the injury. There's a photo of this tape job in "Flash Training", a book, Eric Horst, I think is the author. Its fairly new, so most shops should have it. Start training again on rounded holds, not crimpy edges, or ones that push on the injury. Practice climbing one-handed on easy routes - really helps your footwork and balance. Email me back if I can clarify any of this. Good luck. Russ