From phil@hyphen.equinox.gen.nz Fri Apr 21 17:54:07 EST 1995 Article: 3684 of rec.climbing Xref: news.nsw.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:3684 Path: news.nsw.CSIRO.AU!crux.rp.CSIRO.AU!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!its.csiro.au!mel.dit.csiro.au!munnari.oz.au!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!southern.co.nz!equinox.gen.nz!hyphen!phil From: phil@hyphen.equinox.gen.nz (phil stuart-jones) Subject: Re: cliping without biting the rope Newsgroups: rec.climbing References: <3mgfl4$p2q@info.epfl.ch> Reply-To: phil@hyphen.equinox.gen.nz Distribution: world Lines: 41 X-Newsreader: TIN [AMIGA 1.3 950131BETA PL0] Message-ID: Date: 19 Apr 95 14:25:00 +1200 Organization: home About a week ago, Javier Muguruza wrote: > I hate biting the rope when I'm going to clip, I'm quite scrupulous. But > without biting it, it's more difficult to clip, only using your free hand, > and I get tired sooner. > > Is there a technique to clip as fast as biting the rope but without biting?? Excuse me if this is obvious but it may be useful to some people out there. Constructive criticism (and/or humour :-) encouraged. There is an alternative which I use (sometimes) where it's easier, mainly on bolted routes. Clip the QD to the rope first, then pull the QD (and rope) up and clip it to the hanger/pro/dead cat... Advantages - no gritty bits, diseases, trashed teeth, etc. - less time spent fumbling with your arm above you - clipping is usually quicker overall; less time with slack in the rope - usually less slack involved while clipping; less drop if you pop... - easy to clip the QD to the rope by your waist as it's held fairly still - you can preclip a couple of QDs on a front gear loop if you're worried - ? Disadvantages - you'll needs to ingest those vital minerals from some other source - it takes slightly more strength to lift the rope - can be tricky if the pro you are clipping to is flapping in the wind - possibility of dropping the QD (down the rope) if slack is not given out - ? A corollary to this is that when seconding routes, I tend to remove pro from the rock before removing it from the rope. If you drop the gear while removing it from the rock, it's still attached to the rope and you won't lose it. It's easier to unclip the gear from the rope at your waist because the rope is held still, and your arm is below `heart level'. Some gear can even be clipped to your gear loop(s) before being unclipped from the rope. Your experiences are likely to vary to a greater or lesser extent. phil From isbi2080@mach1.wlu.ca Fri Apr 21 17:55:11 EST 1995 Article: 3752 of rec.climbing Xref: news.nsw.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:3752 Newsgroups: rec.climbing Path: news.nsw.CSIRO.AU!crux.rp.CSIRO.AU!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!its.csiro.au!mel.dit.csiro.au!munnari.oz.au!spool.mu.edu!torn!watserv2.uwaterloo.ca!info!isbi2080 From: isbi2080@mach1.wlu.ca (Simon Isbister u) Subject: Re: cliping without biting the rope X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6] References: <3n0jql$qr5@disunms.epfl.ch> Message-ID: Nntp-Posting-Host: mach1.wlu.ca Sender: news@info.uucp (news management) Organization: Wilfrid Laurier University Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 19:32:02 GMT Lines: 23 Javier Muguruza (jmuguruz@di.epfl.ch) wrote: : I was thinking about some sort of hook fixed to one's chest, in order to : free your hand and go on cliping. : : But the problem of how to fix a hook on your naked chest without giving you : a robot appaerence has to be worked out. Maybe a nipple-like hook ? : : Javi : jmuguruz@di.epfl.ch : I read one post to this saying something like "quit your whining and bite the damn rope". This would seem the most logical to me, but if you are really adverse to putting the rope in your mouth (no teeth, dog pissed on rope, neurotic fetish, whatever), simply tilt your head forward, and squeeze the rope between your chin and chest. May be hard to do in cramped, OW cracks, but thats all I can think of, short of wrapping the rope around your neck;-). **DISCLAIMER- For those of you only half awake right now, don't try that second suggestion** -Simon-