From rjliles@netcom.com Fri Mar 3 16:36:49 EDT 1995 Article: 29325 of rec.climbing Xref: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:29325 Newsgroups: rec.climbing Path: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!its.csiro.au!mel.dit.csiro.au!merlin!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!msunews!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!rjliles From: rjliles@netcom.com (Robert Liles) Subject: Climber injured in Dallas gym Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 04:22:36 GMT Lines: 5 Sender: rjliles@netcom.netcom.com A climber in a Dallas rock gym fell more than 30 feet Wednesday when a rope of insufficient length was used to lead a route. The end of the rope passed by the belayer as the climber was being lowered from the route. From styatrad@aol.com Fri Mar 3 16:36:54 EDT 1995 Article: 29766 of rec.climbing Xref: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:29766 Path: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!metro!news.cs.su.oz.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: styatrad@aol.com (STYatrad) Newsgroups: rec.climbing Subject: Re: Climber injured in Dallas gym Date: 1 Mar 1995 10:33:17 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 5 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3j243t$avt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3ii72u$nuv@uuneo.neosoft.com> Reply-To: styatrad@aol.com (STYatrad) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Hopefully no negative social/legal ramifications arise. It's good to hear the climber is doing alright. Praise your political statement!!!! (#4 - experience!) A qualitiy certification to climb in a gym is an excellent idea, but just because people are certified it does not prepare them for the personal responsibility and decision making required in climbing! From 71250.2777@CompuServe.COM Fri Mar 3 16:57:49 EDT 1995 Article: 29364 of rec.climbing Xref: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:29364 Path: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!metro!news.cs.su.oz.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!msunews!caen!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news From: Gary D. Storrick <71250.2777@CompuServe.COM> Newsgroups: rec.climbing Subject: Re: Rapelling Technique Date: 18 Feb 1995 01:45:42 GMT Organization: via CompuServe Information Service Lines: 20 Message-ID: <3i3jg6$706$3@mhadf.production.compuserve.com> Prusik safeties: (1) Didn't work in tests. Basically, the three-rope rig was used. Get a bridge, hang a rope to the bottom, and put the prusik safety on it. Rappel off the end of a second rope, and see if the prusik stops you. When it doesn't, you'll appreciate the third rope and the belayer at the top. The problem is, a prusik safety works when you let go, which is not instinctive. (2) Lead to complacency in many pehead of the rappeller. I have lost control of exactly one rappel in 25 years of vertical caving. I consider it significant that I let go of the rope with by breaking hand while using a Petzl Stop descender. If it had been any other type, except a stop, I know it would not have happened. Complacency can strike anyone (and we are all idiots on occassion). (BTW - I let go & stopped). ----> gary From stuart@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com Sun Mar 5 17:50:00 EDT 1995 Article: 29452 of rec.climbing Xref: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU rec.climbing:29452 Newsgroups: rec.climbing Path: dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!metro!news.cs.su.oz.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!msunews!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!boulder!news.coop.net!news.den.mmc.com!spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com!stuart From: stuart@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Stuart Marlatt) Subject: Re: Idiots at the gym !!! Message-ID: <1995Feb21.154741.22293@den.mmc.com> Sender: news@den.mmc.com (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: spacemanspiff Organization: Martin Marietta, Denver References: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 1995 15:47:41 GMT Lines: 31 In article duncant@sushi.mitre.or.jp (Duncan Thomson) writes: [...] >Ah yes, a return to the origins of the sport. Reminds me of stories my >Dad tells me about climbing in N. Wales back in the late 40s. 75 foot >lead-outs on a thin hemp rope. The leader was not allowed to fall, >because the pro. (if there was any) and the rope were quite likely to >fail. He tells me that if the leader did fall, the second was supposed to >use a dynamic belay technique, letting the rope slip and then gradually >stopping it, to avoid too much shock that might break the rope. Actually, if you go back a bit further, the recommended technique for dealing with a leader fall was to apply a _static_ belay, with the rope held over a sharp edge! The rational being that since the leader probably had no running belays (pro), and the rest of the party were probably roped together on a small ledge with poor anchors, this drastic action was necessary to prevent the leader from taking the rest of the team with him in his plunge. (Or so I have read; I've been climbing for a long time, but not that long). (Recall the Whymper descent off the Matterhorn for a graphic example of the rationale of this technique). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Shape without form, shade without colour, Paralysed force, gesture without motion; -T.S. Eliot, The Hollow Men .............................................................................. s.w. marlatt, phd <>< & *(:-) Prov. 25.2 Martin Marietta Astronautics stuart@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com M/S/ L5740, P.O. Box 179 (303) 977-0136 Denver, CO 80201 (303) 977-5853 (fax) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------